If you like real and surreal together, then by golly, Gulu is the place for you. It’s dusty and proud and friendly, but not overly so. It’s also two distinct towns on a collision course. A small stream, which also serves as the town car wash, divides these two realities. South of the car wash lies the gridded African town of cinderblock rowhouses and dusty streets inundated with boda bodas and heavy trucks [...]