Livingston, Guatemala is located a mere 20 miles (as the crow flies) from the busy transit cities of Rio Dulce (Fronteras) and Puerto Barrios in Guatemala, and the Southern Belize frontier town of Punta Gorda.
Yet, Livingston remains one of the most isolated and challenging population centers to access.
There are no roads connecting Livingston with anything else on the planet, and definitely no airstrip. To get to Livingston, you must arrive by boat, which in itself is part of the allure.
For many visitors, Livingston’s attractiveness can be found in the town’s unique cultural heritage and offbeat Caribbean vibe, and its proximity to some of the region’s most scenic and enigmatic destinations.
This guide will introduce you to Livingston, Guatemala, with helpful tips on essential things to do, nearby places to visit, our favorite places to eat, how to get here, where to stay, and more!
Why Visit Livingston
Livingston feels like a world apart. And in many ways, both culturally and literally, it is.
The town was a central trading hub for centuries, and Guatemala’s chief seaport until the construction of neighboring Puerto Barrios.
Guatemala was considered the jewel in the crown of Spain’s influence in Central America, and inland Antigua Guatemala, its cultural epicenter.
The Spanish invested much in terms of road and sea linkages in Guatemala and the results are evident in Livingston – long after its heyday and in spite of its water-locked geography.
Livingston also has the distinction of being a key settlement for Garifuna people in Guatemala, though today, the community hosts a variety of cultures and ethnicities.
Furthermore, the town makes for an excellent jumping-off point for visiting Siete Altares and Playa Blanca, jungle hiking, and exploring the area’s other scenic natural attractions.
Livingston is a restful and worthwhile stopover en route to and from Southern Belize, Semuc Champey, the Honduran coast, and Guatemala City, Antigua, and Lake Atitlan.
Where to Stay in Livingston
You won’t find any big-name, international brand hotels or resorts in Livingston, and in our opinion you (and Livingston) are probably better off for it.
There are a handful of excellent lodging options available in and around Livingston, most of which are family-run boutique operations that have been around since before “boutique hotels” were a thing.
Below, we’ve managed to whittle the list down to what we think are the best of the best from half a dozen visits to Livingston (backed up by a look at recent traveler reviews).
In short, these are the places that Lori and I would recommend to our own family and friends if they were planning a visit to the Livingston right now.
Best Guesthouses & Hotels in Livingston
Our Overall Top Pick
Hotel La Casa Rosada is our go-to place to stay in Livingston. They’ve got inexpensive accommodation (their bungalows are particularly tidy and comfortable) with screen windows, mosquito nets, and a nice shared bath.
Casa Rosada is quiet and laid back, but it’s best attribute may be its own private pier with palapa on the banks of the Rio Dulce. There are three hammocks and the area is popular for swimming.
There’s nothing quite like waking up to a Livingston sunrise from the pier at Casa Rosada.
Our #1 Upmarket Pick
If you’re looking for a few more amenities than Casa Rosada (such as en suite bathroom and pool), Hotel Villa Caribe is your best bet.
Rooms are spacious with furnished balcony and many feature sea views. Villa Caribe also has a rooftop terrace and its own private beach.
Our Top Mid-range Pick
A couple doors down from Casa Rosada along the Rio Dulce sits Casa Nostra, offering more amenities than its neighbor (such as en suite bathrooms), without the pool (and the price tag) of Villa Caribe.
Read on for our top tips on getting to Livingston, best things to do and more!
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How to Get to Livingston
From the area’s other major towns and cities, Livingston is only accessed by boat.
Service can range from daily and frequent to unreliable, irregular, or virtually non-existent, depending on your departure point.
Regardless of where you are coming from, boats are generally small to medium sized skiffs, with a functional capacity of 6-30 passengers.
Puerto Barrios to Livingston
Livingston is most easily accessed from Puerto Barrios via a 40-minute boat ride.
Boats leave frequently for Livingston from the Muelle Municipal (find it on the map) when they fill up with passengers. Boats generally stop running after 17:00.
Fronteras Rio Dulce to Livingston
From Fronteras Rio Dulce, boats generally leave for Livingston around 09:30 and 14:00 and takes 1-2 hours.
Get the most up to date information from a guesthouse in Rio Dulce as times and locations can change.
Punta Gorda, Belize to Livingston, Guatemala
If you’re looking to get from Punta Gorda (Belize) to Livingston, reliable information can be a bit tricky to come by because schedules are frequently in flux.
The most commonly-cited schedule is at Hickatee.com, which essentially presents what is written on the board at the boat dock in Punta Gorda.
Last we checked, Asucena (via Requena’s Charters) was still doing the trip Tuesdays and Fridays, departing at 11:00 and takes around 30 minutes (subject to change, of course).
Alternatively, you could take a boat from PG to Puerto Barrios, then a boat from Puerto Barrios to Livingston, as boats run much more frequently on both routes.
IMPORTANT
If you are arriving directly from Belize, you’ll need to check in with immigration once you get to Livingston. From the Municipal Pier, the immigration office is straight up the main road (a fairly steep hill) and on the left.
Arriving by Sea
One of the most striking things we noticed the first time we approached the Guatemalan coast from Belize was how dynamic the coastline is.
The town is built on jungle-covered hills and sheer cliffs jutting into the sea.
Coconut and banana trees sway in the wind.
A statue of Livingston’s patron saint welcomes you as you enter the mouth of the Rio Dulce and Livingston Harbor — perched atop his own little grassy island.
Arriving into Livingston is like arriving in an idyllic Caribbean jungle port town, and, dare I say it, smells of adventure.
Keep reading for the best things to do in Livingston, Guatemala and more!
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Things to Do in Livingston, Guatemala
You won’t find ruins, heritage sites, or major tourist attractions in Livingston. For this reason, for many travelers, Livingston is merely a stopover between Belize and inland Guatemala.
However, there are a few very good reasons why you might want to extend your stay for a few days in Livingston.
Livingston has a cultural vibe all its own, set against a beautiful backdrop of tropical forest, stunning river gorges, and the Caribbean sea.
Additionally, there are a couple worthwhile day trips to consider as well.
Here are a few of our favorite things to do and see in Livingston, Guatemala.
Follow along using our custom map (below) to help find your way around.
(1) Municipal Pier; (2) Municipal Park; (3) Immigration Office; (4) Patrono de Livingston; (5) Siete Altares (7 Altars hike); (6) Playa Blanca (zoom out to see 5 & 6); (7) Buga Mama; (8) Antojitos Gaby; (9) Hotel La Casa Rosada; (10) Happy Fish; (11) Calle Principal; (12) Gil Resort.
Explore the Caribbean Side of Town
Most visitors seem to confine their stay to the area in and around the ferry dock and central business district.
Doing so largely misses out on the heart and soul of this unique place.
Head to the northern area of town fronting the Caribbean Sea to get a more local (and a more Garifuna) vibe.
A number of local bars and restaurants line the beach here. It’s certainly worth it to grab a bite or drink in the evening and enjoy a slice of Livingston a lot of visitors don’t get to experience.
Visit the “Savior of the World”
While you’re on this side of town, keep an eye out for a big, white statue on its own little island.
You would need a boat to actually visit the tiny island that is home to Livingston’s Salvador del Mundo statue (also known as Patrono de Livingston).
Due to frequently choppy seas in these parts, we don’t actually recommend visiting the iconic statue.
Salvador del Mundo might best be admired from land with a nice cold Gallo in hand.
Early Morning Walks Along the Rio Dulce
The road heading southwest from the Parque Municipal might just be our favorite walking route.
Hit it around sunrise or sunset when daily life is ramping up or winding down (and temperatures are still pleasant).
Before sunrise, the harbor docks are virtually deserted. Come sun-up, however, the fishing boats begin to creep back into port from a long night out at sea.
By 08:00, the waterfront is a flurry of activity with fishermen throwing nets, mechanics clanking on engine parts, and fishmongers laying out the night’s catch to dry in the tropical sun.
In the evening, the street comes alive with locals strolling for the sake of strolling and greeting their neighbors along the way.
Eating & Shopping Along Calle Principal
Livingston’s main drag stretching from the ferry dock to the Caribbean is worth a stroll during business hours for poking around in the local shops and sampling local eats.
Day Trips from Livingston
Playa Blanca
Livingston’s location on the Caribbean leads many first-time visitors expecting a Caribbean paradise with sandy beaches and crystalline waters.
Due to the dozen streams that flow into Amatique Bay between Punta Gorda and Livingston, this stretch of coastline tends to be characterized by coffee-colored water, mangroves, and silt.
There is one beach worth a visit within a short boat ride from town. Playa Blanca, while true to its name (it is indeed an idyllic white-sands beach) won’t win any awards for water visibility most months of the year.
It is also a basic operation, providing the necessities for day trippers with no permanent restaurants or lodging to speak of.
Still, if you’re looking to satiate your beach craving, Playa Blanca won’t disappoint.
Siete Altares
Most boats to Playa Blanca will offer the option to stop at Siete Altares (Seven Altars), which makes for a refreshing reprieve from the tropical heat, offering seven freshwater pools to hike to (and swim in).
Rio Dulce & Hot Springs
A boat ride on the Rio Dulce from Livingston is worth a trip in its own right, if only for the cruise through a stunning gorge in the jungle. 20 minutes along, there is a good restaurant popular with travelers.
While the food is tasty, most visitors make the stop here for the hot springs that are adjacent to the property.
Hiking from Livingston to Finca Tatin
There is a moderate 8 km hike through the Parque Nacional Rio Dulce that starts at the far southwestern edge of Livingston and ends near Finca Tatin on the Rio Tatin. Enquire locally for current conditions.
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Where to Eat
For a small town only accessible by boat, Livingston offers a surprising variety of very good food choices, and after three visits we certainly have our favorites.
Antojitos Gaby
Quite possibly the best place in town to grab breakfast. Antojitos Gaby serves up a mean Desayuno Chapin (beans, fried eggs, queso fresco, and cream with corn tortillas) that is a must for any visit to Livingston. (see map, above)
Happy Fish
Happy Fish is a great place to go for some delicious Garifuna food. Try the Garifuna Tapado (seafood and plantains in a spicy coconut milk soup) and their fried shrimp. It’s also a great place to grab a blended coffee and maybe the best happy hour in town! (see map)
Buga Mama
Some of the best ceviche we’ve had in these parts was at Buga Mama on the waterfront. Buga Mama is a bit pricey, but they serve food you just can’t get anywhere else (like ceviche and Thai food), in addition to delicious local favorites. And 100% of their profits go towards local education initiatives. (see map)
Hotel La Casa Rosada
If you’ve been traveling for a while, are spending a few days in and around Livingston, and have a hankering for European specialties done to spec (their filet mignon is awesome!), you can’t beat Hotel La Casa Rosada.
Casa Rosada also whips up a tasty traveler’s breakfast and top notch local dishes as well. Make sure you put your order in with the kitchen staff before 18:00 (6pm). Dinner is served at 19:00 (7pm). (see map)
Coco Bangos
Great local place facing the Caribbean. Grab a couple of Gallos or try something from their menu of regional favorites. Find it on the map.
Hotel Gil for Cold Drinks
There may be no better place to watch the fishing boats head out to sea in the evening while enjoying an icy cold beer than the upper perch at Hotel Gil (seriously, if you want freakin’ cold Gallo, go to Hotel Gil). (see map, above)
Is Livingston Worth Visiting?
Livingston, Guatemala’s unique Garifuna culture and strategic location en route to several of the region’s most popular attractions makes this town a worthy stopover for anywhere from a night to a few days.
With that said, Livingston may disappoint travelers working within a short timeframe or not planning to travel through the region.
In that respect, Livingston might not be worth a significant detour or change in plans.
However, if you’ve got time on your side and are planning to travel from Southern Belize to Guatemala or vice versa, you should definitely consider adding Livingston, Guatemala to your itinerary.
More Caribbean Inspiration
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Hello,
How about baggage.
Can this small boats fit luggage & carry-ons??
we’re a family probably 10-15 and each has a luggage + carry-on
is that a problem or will the boats accommodate less people to fit our
luggage?
Hello! I’m traveling from Belize (Punta Gorda) to Livingston in December (2022) so I contacted Requena’s Charter Service and they service Livingston Monday to Friday on their way to Barrios, but do not travel on weekends or holidays. I received this information November 6, 2022 by contacting them directly from their Facebook page via private message.
Thanks for your guide!
Hi, will be making a stop in Livingston as part of a 3 week tour of Guatemalas large lakes. Including Peten Itza, Flores, Lago Atitlan and Rio Dulce.
we are stopping in Flores first.
I was just wondering if your article is up to date with how often the boats are running from Fronteras Rio Dulce out to Livingston? is it fairly easy to get transport from here?
Also, what is the best guesthouse to get reliable information about transport from?
Thank you for all your good, helpful info.
Hi Margaret. Great questions! Even before Covid, figuring out the schedule between [Fronteras] Rio Dulce and Livingston wasn’t always straightforward sometimes (often season dependent…or dependent on the day). With that said, you can always wrangle up a boat on any day (you just might have to pay a little more or wait a while…say on Sunday). If your Spanish is up to it, best thing to do is head down to the muelle (pier) to the right of the bridge (on the western shore of the river) and see what’s running and when. There’s also another pier (a tour company I believe) on the far (east) side of the bridge to try. Walk a quarter mile and turn left (same road as Ana’s Coffee House). I don’t have any recs for guesthouses in Rio, but I’d recommend contacting Hotel Casa Rosada, Hotel Casa Nostra, or Casa de la Iguana (all in Livingston) for the latest intel, as we’ve found them helpful in the past for schedules to/from Punta Gorda and Puerto Barrios. Hope that helps! Have a great trip!!!
I will be in Guatemala in a couple of weeks time, hoping to go into Belize via Livingston.
Do you know if the ferries are running again?
Hi there! I work at Casa Rosada. You just need to order dinner before 6 not 5 :). Need to update that sign. Also, we haven’t had any luck getting people to Belize from either Puerto Barrios or Livingston recently. Instead, travelers have had to go back to Flores and take an over ground bus. Folks coming here before going to Belize will be disappointed. However, travelers have been successful in going to Honduras recently.
Hi Sarah, thanks so much for the very helpful updates for travelers to the area!!! I will update the article ASAP to reflect this info.